Travel Guide

"This is definitely not a doily kind of place," says a laughing Howard Stafford, co-owner of the Princess Anne Hotel (princessannehotel.com). He should know. Not only do he and his wife own the place, they also operate it, and even restored it.
Built in 1924 by the father of songwriter and crooner Johnny Mercer, the Princess Anne was first a grand hotel, then a number of other things, before falling into disrepair, reaching the verge of demnation. Stafford, who had already completed more than thirty historic-restoration projects in Asheville, bought the place in 2003 and spent two years returning it to its former glory. He and his wife, Jen, decorated it with a delightful mix of the contemporary (the lighting, the art, the lack of doilies) and the traditional (the ironwork, the molding). Most accommodations (from $129) are suites with small kitchens; many overlook a quiet garden and fountain. Numerous porches are perfect for reading or sipping tea. That charm combined with the location makes the Princess Anne feel like a find.
It occupies a raised street corner in a quiet residential neighborhood, just a half mile (but a tough walk) from Asheville's bustling downtown. If Howard or Jen aren't around, one of the incredibly helpful concierges will guide you to the hippest eateries, most scenic hikes, or interesting galleries. That is, if you can motivate yourself to get your day started after the delicious chef-cooked breakfast (included), served daily in the well-appointed dining room. The menu changes every day (but expect fresh fruit and fresh takes on Southern favorites), and you'll find guests dining quietly alone or conversing with new friends.--Richard Thurmond