Fontana Di Vino’s Is Almost Amore

At Fontana di Vino’s entrance, just past the hostess stand, is a display of clear bins brimming with taffy and hard candies. Guests are free to grab a few on their way in—or out. It’s certainly not an unwelcome feature (is complimentary candy ever?), but it is a bit puzzling to see something you’d expect to find at a fish camp rather than an upscale Italian restaurant.

That’s how most of the experience feels at Fontana di Vino. Parts are well-executed; others are inconsistent. The Veal Chop Parmesan? Phenomenal. The Rigatoni Sugo? Needs seasoning. Servers are enthusiastic and attentive, but their knowledge of the wine list is lacking. The flavor of gelato you order may not be available, and the music is a confusing mix of Dean Martin, Billy Joel, and Katy Perry.  

Fontana di Vino—Italian for “fountain of wine”—opened in May in the former Fox & Falcon space in SouthPark, which closed last July after less than a year. Before that, it was Dogwood: A Southern Table. The restaurant’s footprint remains largely unchanged. The distressed wood beams and brick columns are the same, but the red accent walls make it feel more like a ristorante than a steakhouse. The blue corrugated metal bar is modern and fresh, while the dining tables, covered in butcher paper and topped with tiny vases of artificial flowers, seem like an afterthought.

The restaurant is a collaboration between Robert Maynard, CEO of Won Life Holdings and co-founder and CEO of Famous Toastery, and former “Hell’s Kitchen” chef Scott Leibfried. The menu features house-made pastas, Roman pizzas, and prime steaks, with standout (read: pricey) ingredients like rare black truffles flown in from Molise, Italy. Other highlights include a live mozzarella bar and a tableside polenta presentation.

Popular starters include Marshall Cove Mussels with a Hugo Spritz.

The wine list has a variety of reds, whites, and bubbles by the glass or bottle. When a restaurant has the word “vino” in its name, you’d expect a sommelier to materialize and throw out terms like “mouthfeel” and “tannins” instead of a 21-year-old server who assures you every selection is an excellent choice. Cocktails include a Negroni ($17), Aperol Spritz ($13), and an Italian Paloma ($17). They’ve also got Fizzy Lemonade ($4) and an assortment of Pellegrino sodas ($4). 

Antipasto features include Traditional Meatballs ($17) and Fritto Misto ($17), which show up and do their job. The tableside Polenta Pour ($14 per person) is a more entertaining choice if you have two or more people in your party. It arrives on a cart and comes with savory accompaniments like roasted mushrooms, garlic-laced spinach, and meatballs. If Italian grits don’t entice you, the Marsala Cove Mussels ($18), served with toasted ciabatta, are a fine alternative.

Salads are a predictable lineup of Arugula ($14), Caesar ($14), and Radicchio and Endive ($15). If you’re feeling extra bougie, get the Mista ($13) and top it with .25 ounces of black truffles for an additional $48. 

Spaghetti Pomodoro ($19), topped with red sauce and stracciatella, is the culinary equivalent of a shrug. Ravioli en Brodo ($25) is sausage- and ricotta-stuffed ravioli served in chicken broth with mortadella and asparagus. The Rigatoni Sugo ($24) is tossed with slow-cooked pork and marinara, but the full garlic cloves in the sauce feel too aggressive, as if they’re overcompensating for the lackluster pork. 

Don’t leave without trying: The Veal Chop Parmesan ($55) deserves a standing ovation.

Steak selections include Filet Mignon ($59), Ribeye ($55), and NY Strip ($49). If you want some tableside theatrics, though, go for the Veal Chop Parmesan ($55). The bone-in veal chop is topped with marinara and melted mozzarella, like a traditional chicken parm, and it arrives on a cart where your server carves it with a meat cleaver. This one is savory, herby, and enough to feed three people.

For dessert, they’ve got Tiramisu ($15) and Affogato ($13), which are exactly what they sound like, and Gelato ($8) in flavors like pistachio, cherry, and Nutella, which they occasionally run out of. The Bittersweet Chocolate & Caramel Tart ($14) is rich, dark, a little salty, and somehow totally worth it. 

You might leave mildly disappointed—or impressively full, depending on how you order. If it’s the former, be sure to grab a fistful of candy on your way out.