Henrietta’s Plants Roots In Lower South End

Meg Charity and Barrett Worthington opened Rally Pickleball two years ago in Lower South End. It had all the right pieces to succeed in the emerging entertainment district: a food and cocktail menu, live music, and the hype behind what its advocates repeatedly tell us is the fastest-growing sport in America. In its first six months, Rally attracted more than 40,000 visitors. Charity and Worthington could have easily coasted on their track record, but they chose to level up instead.

In July, they opened a farm-to-table bistro called Henrietta’s, next door in the former Rally Annex building. They tapped Andres Kaifer, the chef behind Customshop and Marina’s Tapas, to develop a menu of small plates and shareables using local greens, fresh meats and seafood, and scratch-made pasta. The opening lineup has just 16 dishes, a sign they’ve chosen quality over quantity. 

They transformed the former event space into a neighborhood bistro with exposed brick walls, rattan drum pendants, and woven-back dining chairs. Charity says they designed it so guests can be “a little nosy” if something on the table next to them looks good. Guests can sit in the dining area or grab a spot at the 14-seat bar. The pickleball courts are visible from the window behind the bar, but the sound barely registers inside the restaurant.

Start with an order of warm Focaccia ($6) and slather it in chile-honey butter while you peruse the drink menu. Cocktails emphasize fresh fruit and herbs from the garden. Highlights include the Herbalist ($14), the Orange Creamsicle ($14), and the Ginger Rabbit ($14). Red, white, and sparkling wine is available by the glass, and the beer lineup has local brews from Lenny Boy, Sugar Creek, and Birdsong.

A half-dozen oysters (market price) come just as you’d expect, over crushed ice with lemon and mignonette. Roasted Carrots ($14) are served over a cloud of whipped ricotta with a drizzle of caramelized honey and a sprinkle of mild red chile pepper for a flicker of heat. The Hamachi ($16) is drenched in a blackberry ponzu that tastes like soy sauce with a fruity, fermented edge. While this plate is billed as “shareable,” it’s barely enough to satisfy one person, so you may need to order another.

Don’t leave without trying: The Crispy Gnocchi ($24) will make you rethink every sad, boiled version you ever had.

The right side of the menu has heartier portions that you’ll be more inclined to share. The Fettuccine ($22) is tossed with pancetta, confit tomato, chile and garlic butter, and aged ricotta. The salty pancetta gives the silky noodles a smoky punch, while the ricotta adds a tangy finish. For a pasta dish that hits every corner of your palate, order the Crispy Gnocchi ($24). The pillowy dumplings are served in a parmesan cream with mushrooms from Waxhaw-based Urban Gourmet Farms, agrodolce (an Italian sweet-and-sour sauce), and gremolata for a pop of citrus and herb.

If you think chicken is too basic to order in a restaurant, the Half Green Circle Chicken ($35) will change your mind. Its golden, crackly skin is expertly seasoned, the meat is juicy, and the caramelized drippings from the pan add that umami depth you probably can’t achieve at home. 

The Ribeye is garnished with fingerling chips

The Scallops ($30) are accompanied by buttery Anson Mills grits and tomato brodo (a tomato-based broth) with just enough acidity to balance the savory base. The Ribeye ($42) is rich and marbled with charred edges, sliced into strips, and laid atop piquillo salsa, a mild, smoky sauce made from piquillo peppers. The fingerling chips on top are like steakhouse fries reimagined as a garnish. 

Desserts include Key Lime Cake ($10), Chocolate Brownie Cake ($10), and Cherry Cola Sorbet ($5). The Key Lime Cake is the clear frontrunner, with a thick graham cracker crust, key lime ice cream, and white chocolate crumble. You might rally for a game of pickleball after this meal. But depending on your commitment to dessert, you may just want to cheer from the sidelines.