2025 Charlotteans Of The Year: Andres Kaifer

Customshop’s chef-owner grows Charlotte’s dining scene—and his team’s careers—with a subtle and steady hand

Since Andres Kaifer became executive chef and owner of Customshop in 2022, he’s quietly put his stamp on the beloved Elizabeth restaurant that chef Trey Wilson opened in 2007. “We were slow-rolling the change,” Kaifer says. “I didn’t want to change everything overnight. Allowing my heritage and upbringing to seep its way into the menu took about three months. The last thing I wanted to do was bring in my own army.” 

Longtime diners might notice the tweaks, but Kaifer brings no ego to the table. The 37-year-old, Miami-born chef learned the fundamentals of cooking from his Cuban-born mother and began working in restaurants at age 15. He trained at the Culinary Institute of America and built his career in notable Miami restaurants including Wish and Area 31 before leading the kitchen at The Durham Hotel. Kaifer could have easily replaced the team at Customshop, but he chose to invest in the staff he inherited—most had been there for a decade or more—and mentor the new employees he’s brought on. Instead of leading with his resume or chasing accolades, he’s chosen to build a culture of dignity and respect in the kitchen.

About 50% of his team is Hispanic, which stands to reason in a restaurant that serves Spanish- and Latin American-inspired dishes, but it holds real significance to Kaifer. “I take massive pride in being Hispanic myself and being the son of immigrants,” he says. “I’m happy to train and mentor and coach so they can achieve what I have in my career.” While no one on his staff is undocumented, he says there’s been growing concern over ICE raids since President Trump took office. “You still fear you have to prove your citizenship. … and we stand to lose a lot if they stop coming to work. We would lose a majority of the workforce in hospitality. I hope we can readjust to feeling safe at work again.”

Each week, he has sit-downs with his 20 employees. Sometimes it’s just a pulse check, but many times an employee wants Kaifer’s advice on a new dish or an idea for a pop-up. “Some ask to do pop-ups at the restaurant, and it’s always a yes,” he says. Michael Le, who now owns the southeast Asian pop-up Hello Uncle, began as Kaifer’s chef de cuisine. His current chef de cuisine, Matt Moore, is working on a new pop-up called Anora.

When pastry chef Adriana Cavazos brought in a carrot-and-maple pie with a gingersnap crust for Thanksgiving two years ago, Kaifer insisted they put it on the winter menu. “I am self-taught, so it’s been super-helpful to have Andres to help guide me and teach me about dishes and techniques,” Cavazos says. “He sends me reels all the time, so we get ideas from there, too. He’ll be like, ‘We should do this!’” 

Kaifer’s creative energy extends beyond Customshop. In 2024, he launched Marina’s Tapas at Optimist Hall. The stall, named for a great-grandmother who once ran a tapería in Spain, serves dishes inspired by his family’s recipes. This year, he partnered with the team at Rally Pickleball to develop a menu for Henrietta’s, the farm-to-table restaurant on the LoSo property. “The only reason I said yes is, they are fantastic people,” he says, “and I don’t ever want to pay to play pickleball.” He’s also working on Emmy Lou’s, a new wine bar in the former Mere’s space in Dilworth, that’s expected to be open by the end of the year. 

Despite his 60-hour workweeks, Kaifer devotes 10 to 15 hours a week to mentoring his Customshop staff. It’s not a program he advertises or even has an official name for. “It just kind of happened naturally,” he says. “I feel like it’s my responsibility as a business owner and chef. I’m never going to gatekeep knowledge or skills. Accolades are cool, but to see someone who worked under you grow is the most fulfilling part of the job.”