Foskoskies on Shamrock

Foskoskies on Shamrock is only a year old, but it already seems rooted. It may be all the wood fixtures—paneling, crown molding, and the bar and barstools from the original Pike's Soda Shop (a previous occupant of the space). Perhaps it is the shape of the restaurant—long and narrow like a lowercase "l." The space is cozy but not cramped. Or it may be the food itself—a selection that stresses comfort with a few adventurous forays.

Crab cakes are full of lump crabmeat, not filler. Simple dishes like buttermilk pecan fried chicken are well executed, the chicken breast tender and the breading light and crisp. The cheesy, satisfying broccoli casserole will be familiar to devotees of the Pike's in South End—Walter O'Leary (above), Foskoskies' owner, confirms it is the same recipe. Traditional Southern fare is where the kitchen excels, but cold buckwheat soba noodles in tangy sesame sauce present a respectable alternative.
Desserts (like the rest of the menu) are house made, and you'll want to save some room. The red velvet cake is tall and majestic, its buttercream frosting filling but not heavy. We spied O'Leary preparing our crème brûlée with a blowtorch, but the true finishing touch is a trio of homemade dessert sauces: mango, crème fraiche, and raspberry.

The menu is like the restaurant space itself—not particularly large or adventurous in style or presentation. But the details are executed with care and warmth. It's a simple formula, but a winning one every time.

2121 A Shamrock Dr. (704-535-2220) $$, L, D, FSB.

Photograph by Chris Edwards