Escape From Charlotte In Search of Snow: Paws Up Montana

MILES FROM CHARLOTTE: 2,270

TRAVEL TIME: 4-hour flight to Denver, 2-hour flight to Missoula, plus a 30-minute drive to the resort

The yips and howls begin when the dogs hear our tires crunch over snow. As our truck comes into full view, the sounds of jerking chains join the increasing volume of howls and cries. These huskies are far thinner than domesticated ones, and their manic jumping and pulling against their chains has me worried that this activity might be cruel. 

Our guides begin to select dogs to add to each of the long ropes laid out in front of the sleds, and I realize these are not cries of anguish but the sounds of elation, a seeming, “Pick me!” My concern turns to wonder as these animals burst into life at the knowledge that they are about to do what they were born to do. 

Courtesy, Paws Up Montana

It’s all confirmed when we take off. The dogs who don’t make the cut to pull the sled are released from their chains and run alongside us. Our guide explains that these dogs are thinner because of their high metabolism and need to stay cool on runs. He laughs when he sees the disbelief in my eyes—the one exposed part of my body. It’s February in Montana, and we’re hoping for a temperature above zero today. “You’ll see,” he assures me. 

We’ve traversed a powdery white path lined with snow-dusted green pines for about 15 minutes when the guide calls to the dogs. I cannot feel my fingers through two pairs of insulated gloves and a set of handwarmers, but these dogs collapse, panting, onto their sides. A few minutes later, cooled off, they return to their feet and yip to our guide that they want back at it. 

Immersion in wintry Montana for three days made me feel like I was in the middle of an AI-generated image. Had I done nothing but stare at the surroundings, it still would have been one of the most meaningful travel experiences of my life. 

Guests at Paws Up Montana can stay in Big Timber Homes with one, two, and three bedrooms.

STAY

If you have fantasies about living like a Dutton on Yellowstone, Paws Up Montana in Greenough will satisfy. In fact, cast and crew from the show have stayed at the 37,000-acre working ranch between shoots. The property has 27 luxury mountain cabins, each with one to four bedrooms and, during the other three seasons, 36 lavish glamping tents alongside the Blackfoot River. Each cabin comes with a Lexus SUV for guests’ use on the property, a private deck with a hot tub, fireplaces stocked with wood and kindling, and daily full-service housekeeping. 

On a secluded area of the property is the green o, a couples-only resort with 12 densely wooded accommodations. Each home is nestled in privacy but walled mostly with glass, so you feel as if you’re sleeping among the trees. 

At the green o, you can climb the spiral staircase to the Tree Haus, built 23 feet above ground.

The property also has a full-service spa and a gift shop with the potential to send an AmEx rep to hog-tie me. With ranch resort-wear; jewelry; cowboy hats and boots; and children’s clothes and toys, it’s like a tiny, ranch-themed Neiman Marcus. 

The resort offers complimentary transportation to and from the Missoula airport, about a 30-minute drive away. Paws Up is gratuity-free, which feels unjust considering the exceptional service. 

As for the resort name, it was coined by a member of the Lipson family, who purchased the property in 1997 and marveled at the friendly ranch dogs who greeted visitors by balancing on their hind legs with their front paws in the air.

EAT

All food and beverage at Paws Up is included. Executive Chef Sunny Jin, who honed his chops at Napa’s world-renowned French Laundry, leads the dining program. Upon arrival, the staff will tell you that, if you don’t see something you like or crave something specific, the chefs will make it happen.

Trough, one of two on-site restaurants at Paws Up, serves dishes like The Double Smash Burger, with wagyu patties.

Pomp is open for dinner only, and selections change nightly. Most everything that lands on your plate is locally sourced, from the greens and huckleberries to the game and fish. 

For breakfast, lunch, and casual dinners, you’ll eat at Trough. Each morning offers an overwhelming buffet spread of every breakfast item you’ve ever considered. For those who prefer to order off a menu, you can choose from breakfast standards and a few Western additions like Smoked Trout Benedict or Huckleberry Pancakes (yes, huckleberries are huge here). Later in the day, enjoy hearty ranch fare like their popular Double-Smash Burger or a lighter Warm Quinoa Bowl. Black Truffle Fries are a good idea any time of day.

After an excursion or to cap off your evening, stop by Tank, a cozy, cocktail bar with a roaring fire and rotating menu.

In non-winter months, additional alfresco dining options are available. 

PLAY

Paws Up has an impressive lineup of on- and off-property activities. Meet your friendly nature guides at the Wilderness Outpost, where the gift shop is—so give yourself some extra time. In addition to dog sledding, winter guests can downhill and cross-country ski, snow tube, ride snowmobiles and horses, and snowshoe. You can also try your hand at curling and broom hockey. For a true ranch experience, try cow croquet, where you attempt to guide cows through five gates from atop a horse. 

Choose from an array of activities to get your blood pumping: a creekside stroll in snowshoes; curling; and cow croquet, which some enterprising soul will surely introduce to Charlotte within the next decade.