Escaping the World with Dilworth's Foxcroft Wine Co.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER TAYLOR
Foxcroft Wine Co. in Dilworth sells bottles of wine at retail price, whether you’re taking them to go or drinking them in the shop.

A classic burger with grilled onions and truffle oil requires a big bite.

DARK, GRAY CLOUDS were building in the western sky as I walked through the doors of Foxcroft Wine Co. in Dilworth. It was early evening, and a spring thunderstorm, promising torrential downpours and loud claps of thunder, appeared ready to roll through in a matter of minutes. People from the patio began to move inside. 

The tables were full, and animated conversation resonated throughout the wood-paneled dining room, which is far more spacious than it seems at first glance. There were colleagues having drinks after work, girlfriends splitting a few bottles of wine, and my mom and me, having a belated Mother’s Day celebration. 

Our server was knowledgeable and helpful. The ability to make informed suggestions about wine without being a snob is harder to find than you might think. He guided us to excellent choices: an Italian pinot gris for Mom and a dry, Italian red for me. Like its SouthPark location, Foxcroft offers roughly two dozen wines by the glass and a robust selection of bottles. If your table is lucky enough to be able to agree on a selection, a bottle may be the best bet, as they sell at retail prices. 

Customers here don’t always appreciate the food because they’re so busy detaching from reality the second the cork leaves the bottle. The menu emphasizes small bites that go well with the wine, and there is genuinely something for every palate—from a classic burger ($13) and truffle fries ($8) to escargot with chorizo ($10). We were also impressed by a lemony, creamy ricotta cheese, drizzled with olive oil and cracked black pepper ($8), that is best smeared on crostini and paired with salty olives. The straightforward salami flatbread ($14) was crispy and generous, with pecorino, mozzarella, and Parmesan cheeses. Many of the dishes arrived on long, skinny wooden boards, a simple presentation that showcased the food. 

But I would have been content escaping with the wine alone. Like people at nearly every table in the room, we laughed and talked and checked out from the real world, spinning away our cares with the swirls of a glass. Cocooned in the busy bar, at our high top table among the bottles, we barely noticed the storm outside. 

 

 

 The menu lists items that pair well with wine, such as cheese and charcuterie.


This article appears in the July 2016 issue of Charlotte Magazine

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Categories: Food + Drink, In Print