Fresh Take: The Goodyear House in NoDa

Chef Chris Coleman promises a good time—and a really good meal
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PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER TAYLOR

The Goodyear House in NoDa teased its February opening for months—and it was worth the wait. The historic mill house, under construction for more than a year, stretches into multiple dining rooms modeled on different eras. It’s a nod to the early 1900s, when a family would add a new room to the home after a successful year.

On a warm evening, grab a table in the botanist room, which brims with green potted plants and framed floral prints. Its glass garage doors open to a patio with string lights and an outdoor bar that serves drafts, bottles, and cans. Inside, another bar serves cocktails like the Highland Park Mill ($12) and Caldwell Street ($11), named for well-known spots in the neighborhood.

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Each meal at The Goodyear House begins with complimentary pull-apart sour cream and onion brioche served with honey butter. Photograph by Peter Taylor.

Leading the kitchen is Chris Coleman, former executive chef at Stoke and recent Chopped winner. Each meal starts with complimentary pull-apart sour cream and onion brioche with honey butter, which might last five minutes at a table of four. (You can order another for $4.) The dinner menu has a “Bites” section with shareable snacks like marinated East Coast shrimp ($9), served with mignonette butter on a saltine cracker. In the “Smalls” section, plates include smoked cashew mac and cheese ($8), a dish you’d never guess is vegan, and pork schnitzel ($16) with apple mustard, apples, arugula, and cheddar. The “Biggies” section has grilled mountain trout ($28 for half fish, $50 for a whole) and a prime rib dinner ($32 for 8 oz., $64 for 16 oz., and $90 for 24 oz.).

Charlotte Nc February 3d Chef Chris Coleman And The Goodyear House Unpretentious Palette Event In Charlotte, Nc. Photographed In Charlotte Nc On February 3, 2020. Photo By Peter Taylor

Photograph by Peter Taylor

The menu demonstrates Coleman’s talent for taking simple, straightforward ingredients and creating complex yet familiar flavors. His lemon chess pie ($5), a combination of eggs, butter, sugar, and lemon juice, does exactly that. And if you were a fan of his legendary one-pound doughnut at Stoke, the apple fritter doughnut ($5) drizzled with sour cream glaze is another culinary triumph. You won’t need eight friends to help you with this dessert, but if you can’t finish it in one sitting, take the rest home and eat it for breakfast.

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(Clockwise from top) Goopy onions, creamed greens, prime rib with horseradish crust.

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Marinated East Coast shrimp served with mignonette butter and saltines. Photograph by Peter Taylor.

Don’t leave without trying: BBQ pork skins ($5) on the bar snacks menu. Each bite-sized skin is filled with a dollop of French onion dip.

Charlotte Nc February 3d Chef Chris Coleman And The Goodyear House Unpretentious Palette Event In Charlotte, Nc. Photographed In Charlotte Nc On February 3, 2020. Photo By Peter Taylor

Photograph by Peter Taylor

Categories: Food + Drink