Jake’s Good Eats

There's a certain quaint-meets-hip factor about Jake's Good Eats. The former gas station location, the brothers in the kitchen and the mother behind the counter, the simple décor: quaint. The filling-station "rags" as napkins, the graphic tees emblazoned with the Jake's logo: hip. It's an intentionally charming place, but it's earnest, and it works.

There really is a Jake. His last name is Stegall, his brother's name is Gordon, and his mother's name is Jean. She makes the desserts, including a fantastic banana pudding. Jake and Gordon man the kitchen, turning out slightly upscaled Southern favorites. Fried green tomatoes are heavily battered and come on a bed of leek relish. A deviled eggs app is accompanied by thick pimento cheese. Succulent pan-seared salmon is served on a hearty fried-potato cake. Also look for an outstanding barbecue chicken with a penne-based mac 'n' cheese. Lunch features dogs and 'cue, po' boys, and egg, potato, or chicken salad.

Jake's Good Eats
12721 Albemarle Rd. (704-545-4741) $-$$, L, D. No alcohol served. Closed Sun-Mon.