Mouthwatering Memories

The dishes at Montford Drive's newest restaurant were created to be unforgettable
Chris Edwards

Describing the menu at 15 North Roadside Kitchen isn’t an easy task. Other things are easy to describe. The atmosphere, for example, is sophisticated while still feeling cozy, with shiny dark wooden tables and fabric-backed booths lit by modern, round, low-hanging fixtures. Televisions play over a bar and large windows face popular Montford Drive while casual, upbeat tunes (think lots of Jack Johnson) play in the background.

The service is simple to explain as well. Helpful servers know the menu well and describe with gusto each item, including choices from an extensive wine list. Dishes are served quickly and steaming hot, ready for tucking away with the same enthusiasm with which they were described.

But the menu is another thing entirely. At first glance it seems scattered. Austrian Wiener schnitzel ($20) falls into the same column as buttermilk fried chicken ($17),  crawfish and shrimp Creole ($21), and a cheeseburger ($12), among other options. This kind of Cheesecake Factory–esque conglomeration feels out of place in a small brick building with a hanging sign outside proclaiming it’s a Roadside Kitchen.

The restaurant’s owner, Chef Brett McKee, modeled 15 North after his first Roadside Kitchen, 17 North, in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina. His goal for the restaurants (he plans to open more in Nashville, Birmingham, and Atlanta in coming months) is to create new memories for guests through nostalgic dishes, such as fried green tomatoes ($9), piled high and served with a semispicy and distinctly Southern red pepper jam.

Despite the menu feeling somewhat scattershot, it does offer plenty of delicious—and memorable—dishes. A Yorkshire steak and eggs ($18) is served with perfectly cooked medallions of beef, fried eggs, and grilled tomatoes, all drizzled in a savory hollandaise sauce. The Maine lobster rolls ($21) are stuffed to the point of bursting with cold, fresh lobster salad and served with sweet, grilled corn. A “Sunday night” pot roast ($19) features braised meat served with velvety mashed potatoes and tender vegetables.

The best choice, though, may be the oven-cured tomato soup ($6). It’s a creamy bisque, topped with thick drops of basil oil and complemented perfectly by a crisp grilled cheese sandwich. It’s both reminiscent of childhood and a grown-up culinary treat you won’t soon forget—which, at 15 North, is exactly the point.
 

15 North Roadside Kitchen

1513 Montford Dr.

704-919-0003

$$-$$$, D, FSB

15NorthRoadsideKitchen.com

Categories: Food + Drink, Now Open, Restaurant Reviews